I think I can do that. Maybe even better

We all get inspiration from somewhere. After years of pinning specimens for my own research, I stumbled upon a booth selling framed insects from around the world. Seeing the possibilities — and fresh off building a woodshop in my garage — I went home and crafted my first shadowbox prototype. The bugs to go inside were still TBD.

Turning Raw Materials into Frames

Materials and tools

  • Oak boards (select straight-grained, kiln-dried pieces)

  • 1⁄8" or 3⁄16" float glass (cut to size)

  • Backing board (acid-free foamcore or 1⁄8" hardwood panel)

  • Wood glue and PVA wood glue

  • Small finishing nails or brad nails

  • Clamps (bar or parallel)

  • Miter saw or table saw

  • Router with rabbet bit or chisel and mallet

  • Glass cutter and straightedge

  • Safety gear: eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask, gloves

  • Sandpaper (120–220 grit), wood finish (oil, varnish, or wax)

  • Measuring tools: calipers, combination square, tape measure, pencil

  • Optional: silicone or glazing points to secure glass, felt pads

Measure the specimen precisely

  • Measure the insect in three dimensions: length, width, and maximum depth (thickness from the mounting pin or substrate to the top of the body). Use calipers for accuracy.

  • Consider clearance: add a small gap to avoid touching the specimen. Typical clearances: 1/8" (3 mm) for flat or small insects, 1⁄4" (6 mm) for bulkier specimens. For very delicate or large-bodied insects, increase clearance accordingly.

  • Decide display orientation and any mounting hardware (pinned, glued to a substrate, suspended). This affects internal dimensions.

Design the shadowbox interior dimensions

  • Internal width = insect width + twice the chosen horizontal clearance.

  • Internal height = insect length + twice the chosen vertical clearance.

  • Internal depth = insect depth + backing substrate thickness + chosen clearance from glass (often 1⁄8"–1⁄4").

  • Example: insect 2.5" long × 1.25" wide × 0.5" deep, choose 1⁄8" clearance all around and 1⁄8" glass clearance: internal width = 1.25 + 0.25 = 1.5"; internal height = 2.5 + 0.25 = 2.75"; internal depth = 0.5 + 0.125 (foamcore) + 0.125 = 0.75".

Plan the frame and rabbet

  • Choose frame face width and thickness from oak boards. Common face widths are 3⁄4" to 1 1⁄2".

  • The interior cavity sits inside a rabbet (a recess) routed or cut into the back of the frame pieces to hold the glass and backing.

  • Rabbet depth = glass thickness + backing thickness + small shim space (1⁄16"–1⁄8"). For 1⁄8" glass and 1⁄8" foamcore,

We use only oak to make our frames. Much of it is sourced from a small farm owned and milled by a family friend in Central Missouri.

Solid, sturdy, and full of personality—oak gives every frame a warm grain and a lifetime of good looks. No plywood shortcuts, no mystery woods—just real oak, hand-finished to bring out natural color and texture. Oak resists dings, holds joins tight, and ages beautifully, developing a rich patina that tells your story.

If you love craftsmanship that looks as good as it feels, oak frames are the smart, stylish choice.

Sourcing the Wood